I promised this post for last Friday but a new site launch for portcredit.com threw a bit of a tire-iron into the best laid plans.
Having said that I continue to be at once fascinated and terrified by surfing. The shot in the previous post of Greg Long beneath the massive wave captures it perfectly. It look s fluid and peaceful with foamy doom hanging literally over your head.
I will recount the story of Liam and I body-surfing (in very dangerous swells) on Maui a little later. I will save the tale of Carol and I watching some surfers on the Florida coast paddling for hours to get beyond the waves. I will spare you the description of the first time I saw surfers gathering on a beach on Kauai 25 years ago. But I’ll share a link with you:
For a land-locked old guy from Ontario, I can still get the vicarious thrill of waiting for the waves at the Red Bull Big Wave Africa site. The swells are only 4 feet today – no good for surfing. But the big one’s coming. And I’ll be watching.